Going out for brunch is usually the answer to life’s greatest dilemmas. Take the Sunday before last, for instance: I, along with a couple of out of towners visiting Kingston for the awesome Great Lake Swimmers show on Wolfe Island, was supposed to be running in the Beat Beethoven race, but the torrential downpour outside my window coupled with the fact that one of my guests had left one of her running shoes back home, pushed us off-track in more ways than one. Nipping our state of inertia in the bud, we hopped in the car and drove straight to Pan Chancho for a hearty start to the day.
Full disclosure: I really love Pan Chancho (44 Princess St, located lamentably–for now–in the Ground Zero-esque construction zone of Lower Princess), which is the bakery/cafe offshoot of another hometown hero, Chez Piggy. Their premade sandwiches and salads may cost an arm and a leg, and the place may often be panic attack-inducingly crowded, but I defy you to dig into one of their profiteroles or framboise chocolate squares and say it wasn’t worth the money or the time or the huddled masses. I ate at their cafe for the first time a year ago, and it quickly became one of my favourite lunch and brunch destinations. Their food is always fresh and interesting, and for the most part the service is unpretentious and prompt. You might wait a little while for a table if you don’t have a reservation, and you’ll certainly pay more for brekkie than other local favourite spots like Peter’s Place or Star Diner, but you’ll be glad you did.
Sunday’s brunch started on a high note–we only had to wait five minutes for our table. We busied ourselves in the mercifully empty bakery while we waited, gazing longingly at the cheese counter and nibbling at samples of various pastries. Finally cozily nestled at a corner table with a view of the storm raging outside, we started our meal with some lemon currant rolls fresh from the oven, served with jam on the side. We hardly thought we’d have room for another dish after that, but somehow we soldiered on.
In a vain attempt to get out of my smoked salmon platter rut, I ordered the Breakfast Wrapped Up, a gooey, cheesy egg burrito served with black beans and corn salad on the side. Although I really enjoyed it, I wish it had come with more hot sauce, but really, that’s a pretty minor complaint. One of my visiting friends had the smoked salmon plate in my honour, and was kind enough to offer me a bite. The fennel cream cheese that comes with the dish is truly out of this world, and the giant chunks of cucumber make you feel like you’re doing something really virtuous by ordering it. The third member of our crew had the Three Egg Torta, ordered partly because it came with roasted potatoes (a caveat: many of Pan Chancho’s sides have to be ordered separate from the main dishes, which can add to the cost of your meal). While the fritatta-style eggs were apparently very good, the potatoes left something to be desired, namely, more of them. A rather chintzy portion was a real disappointment.
I was also a little bummed out that we were obviously there too early in the day for the usual brunch specials; Pan Chancho’s chefs always seem to have something interesting up their sleeves, and it was too bad that our early-bird-catching-the-worm attitude meant we missed out on a few extra choices. On the whole, though, this was a meal well worth the visit, and by getting in first thing in the day, I got home in time for a decadent mid-morning nap. There are few things that beat a good meal and a good sleep, and having both in such fine form was a real treat.